Welcome to Daisy and Storm! Here you will find lots of free crochet and knitting patterns – Amigurumi characters like Harry Potter and friends, Knitted toys, afghan squares and washcloths and baby clothes.
All patterns are free to use to make items for whatever you wish – yourself, friends, charity or to sell. However, please do not copy the patterns if you are sharing them online, rather link back to the pages.
Thank you so much for visiting and I hope you find a pattern to love!
Our latest creation is a free knitting pattern for a turtle afghan or washcloth square! This square would work great as a washcloth or dishcloth, or you could put it together with some of the other squares to make an afghan or blanket (all my squares are the same size). Finished square approximately 22 cm x 22 cm (8.5 inches x 8.5 inches)
If you would like to be updated every time we post a new pattern, please fill in the form ‘Subscribe to blog via email’ (on the right hand side on desktop view or scroll down on mobile)
Size depends on yarn and needle size used – with DK/Light Worsted Weight yarn and 4 mm (US 6, UK 8) knitting needles, finished squares are approximately 22 cm x 22 cm (8.5 inches x 8.5 inches)
Any sized needle and yarn can be used (please refer to yarn label for recommended needle size), however different needle and yarn sizes will produce different sized squares, so if you plan to make an afghan or a set of these it is best to use the same needle size and yarn for each square.
On Right Side: Knit white square and purl black dots
On Wrong Side: Purl white squares and Knit black dots
Cast on 45 and start at bottom left hand corner of chart with a wrong side row.
Cast on 45
Work 7 rows of (K1, P1) to last stitch, K1
Row 8: K1, P1, K1, P1, K37, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 9 and all odd numbered rows: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P35, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 10: K1, P1, K1, P1, K17, P2, K18, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 12: K1, P1, K1, P1, K10, P3, K3, P4, K3, P3, K11, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 14: K1, P1, K1, P1, K9, P5, K1, P6, K1, P5, K10, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 16: K1, P1, K1, P1, K9, P18, K10, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 18: K1, P1, K1, P1, K10, P16, K11, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 20: K1, P1, K1, P1, K11, P14, K12, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 22: K1, P1, K1, P1, K10, P16, K11, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 24: K1, P1, K1, P1, K9, P18, K10, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 26: K1, P1, K1, P1, K9, P18, K10, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 28: K1, P1, K1, P1, K3, P1, K5, P18, K5, P1, K4, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 30: K1, P1, K1, P1, K3, P2, K4, P18, K4, P2, K4, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 32: K1, P1, K1, P1, K3, P3, K3, P18, K3, P3, K4, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 34: K1, P1, K1, P1, K3, P5, K2, P16, K2, P5, K4, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 36: K1, P1, K1, P1, K4, P28, K5, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 38: K1, P1, K1, P1, K5, P26, K6, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 40: K1, P1, K1, P1, K7, P22, K8, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 42: K1, P1, K1, P1, K9, P4, K1, P8, K1, P4, K10, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 44: K1, P1, K1, P1, K16, P4, K17, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 46: K1, P1, K1, P1, K15, P6, K16, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 48: K1, P1, K1, P1, K15, P6, K16, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 50: K1, P1, K1, P1, K15, P6, K16, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 52: K1, P1, K1, P1, K16, P4, K17, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 54: K1, P1, K1, P1, K17, P2, K18, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 56: K1, P1, K1, P1, K37, P1, K1, P1, K1
Work 7 rows of (K1, P1) to last stitch, K1
Cast off.
Our latest pattern is a free tiny, handful of kitten Amigurumi pattern! I’m on a stash busting mission this year and this little guy is a great way to use up small amounts of left over yarn. He also makes a great last minute present or a wonderful gift for charity.
If you would like to be updated every time we post a new pattern, please fill in the form ‘Subscribe to blog via email’ (on the right hand side on desktop view or scroll down on mobile)
Approximately 12 cm (4.75 inches) tall using worsted weight yarn and 3 mm crochet hook.
You can use any yarn and crochet hook combination that gives you good tension. Normally this would be a hook at least two sizes smaller than that recommended on the yarn
You can use any yarn and crochet hook combination that gives you good tension. Normally this would be a hook around two sizes smaller than that recommended on the yarn label. For kitten I used a 3 mm hook with 14 ply/Worsted Weight acrylic yarn.
sc – single crochet
dec – decrease
inc – increase
ch – chain
The numbers in brackets at the end of each round indicate either:
Ears (make 2)
Using main coloured yarn:
Round 1: 4 sc into magic ring (4)
Round 2: 4 inc (8)
Rounds 3: 8 sc
Round 4: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 4 (12)
Fasten off.
Body (starting at top of head)
Using main coloured yarn and stuffing as you go:
Round 1: 6 sc into magic ring (6)
Round 2: 6 inc (12)
Round 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) 6 times (18)
Round 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) 6 times (24)
Round 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) 6 times (30)
Rounds 6-8: 30 sc (3 rounds)
Flatten head down and attach ears on fold between rounds 2 and 7.
Round 9: (3 sc, 1 dec) 6 times (24)
If you are using safety eyes, attach them now between rows 7 and 8 with 4 stitches in between the eyes.
Round 10: (2 sc, 1 dec) 6 times (18)
Round 11: (1 sc, 1 dec) 6 times (12)
Stuff head
Round 12: (2 sc, 1 dec) 3 times (9)
Round 13: 9 sc
Round 14: (2sc, 1 inc) 3 times (12)
Round 15: 12 sc
Round 16: (1 sc, 1 inc) 6 times (18)
Round 17: 18 sc
Round 18: (2 sc, 1 inc) 6 times (24)
Rounds 19-21: 24 sc (3 rounds)
Round 22: (2 sc, 1 dec) 6 times (18)
Round 23: 18 sc
If you are not at the centre of cat (either front or back) sc until you reach the centre.
Count back 10 stitches and place a marker. You will now work on the last 9 stitches to form the first leg. The first sc on the next round goes into the stitch after the marker to form a circle.
Rounds 24-27: 9 sc (4 rounds)
Round 28: 4 dec, 1 sc
Fasten off. Thread needle through last round of stitches and draw closed to form bottom of leg.
Stuff leg and body. Join yarn to one of the 9 stitches on the other side of the body for the next leg (it does not matter which stitch you choose).
Rounds 29-32: 9 sc (4 round)
Stuff leg.
Round 33: 4 dec, 1 sc.
Fasten off as for first leg.
Bend legs up towards belly and sew in place so cat is sitting.
Belly
Using contrast coloured yarn:
Round 1: 6 sc into magic ring (6)
Round 2: 6 inc (12)
Round 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) 6 times (18)
Fasten off. Pin belly on to bear and sew securely in place.
Front legs (make two)
Using main coloured yarn:
Round 1: 4 sc into magic ring (4)
Round 2: 4 inc (8)
Round 3: 8 sc
Round 4: 6 sc, 1 dec (7)
Round 5: 7 sc
Round 6: 5 sc, 1 dec (6)
Rounds 7-11: 6 sc (5 rounds)
Fold tops of legs flat and sc through the top of both sides to flatten top of leg (3 sc).
Fasten off.
Attach legs securely to cat at front of neck.
Muzzle
Using contrast colour yarn:
Row 1: 5 ch
Round 2: starting from 2nd chain from hook, 1 sc in each of the next 3 chains, 3 sc in the last chain, then working back up the opposite side of the chain, 1 sc in each of the next 3 chains, then 2 sc in the last stitch. Do not turn.
Round 3: 12 sc
Fasten off. Attach safety nose or embroider nose. Embroider mouth. Pin muzzle in place and then sew securely to face. Using white coloured thread, embroider whiskers.
Tail
Using main coloured yarn:
Round 1: 6 sc into magic ring (6)
Rounds 2-12: 6 sc
Fasten off.
Pin tail in place and then sew to attach.
Collar
Using second contrast coloured yarn:
Row 1: 15 ch
Row 2: starting in second chain from hook, 14 sc.
Fasten off.
Place collar around neck and sew in place.
Our latest pattern is a free tiny, handful of teddy Amigurumi pattern! I’m on a stash busting mission this year and this little guy is a great way to use up small amounts of left over yarn. He also makes a great last minute present or a wonderful gift for charity.
If you would like to be updated every time we post a new pattern, please fill in the form ‘Subscribe to blog via email’ (on the right hand side on desktop view or scroll down on mobile)
Approximately 12 cm (4.75 inches) tall using DK/Light Worsted Weight yarn and 2.75 mm crochet hook.
Approximately 14 cm (5.5 inches) tall using worsted weight yarn and 3 mm crochet hook.
You can use any yarn and crochet hook combination that gives you good tension. Normally this would be a hook at least two sizes smaller than that recommended on the yarn
You can use any yarn and crochet hook combination that gives you good tension. Normally this would be a hook around two sizes smaller than that recommended on the yarn label. For Teddy I used a 3 mm hook with 14 ply/Worsted Weight acrylic yarn.
sc – single crochet
dec – decrease
inc – increase
sl – slip stitch
ch – chain
The numbers in brackets at the end of each round indicate either:
Ears (make 2)
Using main coloured yarn:
Round 1: 5 sc into magic ring (5)
Round 2: 5 inc (10)
Rounds 3-4: 10 sc (2 rounds)
Fasten off.
Body (starting at top of head)
Using main coloured yarn and stuffing as you go:
Round 1: 6 sc into magic ring (6)
Round 2: 6 inc (12)
Round 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) 6 times (18)
Round 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) 6 times (24)
Round 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) 6 times (30)
Rounds 6-8: 30 sc (3 rounds)
Flatten head down and attach ears on fold between rounds 2 and 7.
Round 9: (3 sc, 1 dec) 6 times (24)
If you are using safety eyes, attach them now between rows 7 and 8 with 4 stitches in between the eyes.
Round 10: (2 sc, 1 dec) 6 times (18)
Round 11: (1 sc, 1 dec) 6 times (12)
Stuff head
Round 12: (2 sc, 1 dec) 3 times (9)
Round 13: 9 sc
Round 14: (2sc, 1 inc) 3 times (12)
Round 15: 12 sc
Round 16: (1 sc, 1 inc) 6 times (18)
Round 17: 18 sc
Round 18: (2 sc, 1 inc) 6 times (24)
Rounds 19-21: 24 sc (3 rounds)
Round 22: (2 sc, 1 dec) 6 times (18)
Round 23: 18 sc
If you are not at the centre of the bear (either front or back) sc until you reach the centre.
Count back 10 stitches and place a marker. You will now work on the last 9 stitches to from the first leg. The first sc on the next round goes into the stitch after the marker to form a circle.
Rounds 24-27: 9 sc (4 rounds)
Round 28: 4 dec, 1 sc
Fasten off. Thread needle through last round of stitches and draw closed to form bottom of leg.
Stuff leg and body. Join yarn to one of the 9 stitches on the other side of the body for the next leg (it does not matter which stitch you choose).
Rounds 29-32: 9 sc (4 round)
Stuff leg.
Round 33: 4 dec, 1 sc.
Fasten off as for first leg.
Arms (make two)
Using main coloured yarn:
Round 1: 4 sc into magic ring (4)
Round 2: 4 inc (8)
Round 3: 8 sc
Round 4: 6 sc, 1 dec (7)
Round 5: 7 sc
Round 6: 5 sc, 1 dec (6)
Rounds 7-9: 6 sc (3 rounds)
Fold tops of arms flat and sc through the top of both sides to flatten top of arm (3 sc).
Fasten off.
Attach arms securely to bear at either side of neck.
Muzzle
Using contrast colour yarn:
Row 1: 5 ch
Round 2: starting from 2nd chain from hook, 1 sc in each of the next 3 chains, 3 sc in the last chain, then working back up the opposite side of the chain, 1 sc in each of the next 3 chains, then 2 sc in the last stitch. Do not turn.
Round 3: 12 sc
Fasten off. Attach safety nose or embroider nose. Embroider mouth. Pin muzzle in place and then sew securely to bears face.
Belly
Using contrast coloured yarn:
Round 1: 6 sc into magic ring (6)
Round 2: 6 inc (12)
Round 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) 6 times (18)
Fasten off. Pin belly on to bear and sew securely in place.
This page contains some affiliate links – if you purchase a product using these links I may receive a small payment at no extra cost to you.
Our latest creations are free knitting pattern for afghan or washcloth squares of the entire alphabet! These squares would work great as a washcloth or dishcloth, or you could put them together to spell out names or words or even add them in with some of the other squares to make an afghan or blanket (all my squares are the same size). Finished square approximately 22 cm x 22 cm (8.5 inches x 8.5 inches)
These patterns are also available in printed book format from Amazon Daisy and Storm’s Knitted Alphabet Squares for Washcloths and Afghans
Size depends on yarn and needle size used – with DK/Light Worsted Weight yarn and 4 mm (US 6, UK 8) knitting needles, finished squares are approximately 22 cm x 22 cm (8.5 inches x 8.5 inches)
Any sized needle and yarn can be used (please refer to yarn label for recommended needle size), however different needle and yarn sizes will produce different sized squares, so if you plan to make an afghan or a set of these it is best to use the same needle size and yarn for each square.
Our latest pattern is a free Sirius Black Amigurumi! I’ve just starting reading Order of the Phoenix again and I thought Sirius definitely deserved a pattern.)
In case you would like to make Sirius some friends there are also free patterns available for many other Harry Potter characters.
I am planning on making a series of these Amigurumi dolls, so if you would like to request a pattern for a certain character (I’ll do my best!) please let me know by commenting below.
If you would like to be updated every time I post a new pattern, please fill in the form ‘Subscribe to blog via email’ (on the right hand side on desktop view, or scroll down on mobile).
Please also take a look at our other Amigurumi patterns…
Approximately 28 cm (11 inches) tall using DK/Light Worsted Weight yarn and 3 mm crochet hook.
Approximately 30 cm (12 inches) tall using worsted weight yarn and 3 mm crochet hook.
Approximately 20 cm (8 inches) tall using DK/Light Worsted Weight yarn and 2.75 mm crochet hook.
You can use any yarn and crochet hook combination that gives you good tension. Normally this would be a hook at least two sizes smaller than that recommended on the yarn label.
You can use any yarn and crochet hook combination that gives you good tension. Normally this would be a hook around two sizes smaller than that recommended on the yarn label. For Sirius I used a 2.75 mm hook with 8ply/DK/Light Worsted Weight acrylic yarn.
sc – single crochet
dec – decrease
inc – increase
blo – crochet through back loops only
sl – slip stitch
ch – chain
The numbers in brackets at the end of each round indicate how many stitches you should have at the end of the round
Arms (make 2)
Using flesh coloured yarn:
Round 1: 4 sc into magic ring (4)
Round 2: 4 inc (8)
Rounds 3-4: 8 sc (2 rounds)
Change to purple coloured yarn:
Round 5: 8 sl
Round 6: 8 sc blo
Rounds 7-14: 8 sc (8 rounds)
Fasten off. Repeat for second arm. Lightly stuff both arms.
Legs (make 2)
Using dark brown coloured yarn and stuffing as you go:
Round 1: 6 sc into magic ring (6)
Round 2: 6 inc (12)
Round 3: (3 sc, 3 inc) 2 times (18)
Round 4: 18 sc blo (18)
Round 5: 18 sc
Round 6: 2 sc, 7 dec, 2 sc (11)
Change to navy blue coloured yarn:
Round 7: 11 sl
Round 8: 11 sc blo
Round 9-18: 11 sc (10 rounds)
Fasten off.
Make second leg same as first, but do not fasten off.
sc to side of leg if not already there. Chain 1 stitch.
Torso
Round 1: 11 sc around leg that you fastened off (legs are then attached to each other), 1 sc in ch, 11 sc around second leg, 1 sc in ch (24)
Round 2: 10 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec (22)
Round 3: 22 sc
sc until at centre of back (i.e. work a part round until you are at the middle of back)
Change to purple coloured yarn:
Round 4: 22 sl
Round 5: 22 sc blo
Round 6-8: 22 sc (3 rounds)
Round 9: 5 sc, 1 dec, 9 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc (20)
Round 10-11: 20 sc (2 rounds)
Sc to side of body if not already there
Round 12: 8 sc around arm, 10 sc on body, 8 sc around other arm, 10 sc on body (36)
Round 13: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 12 (24)
Make sure body is stuffed before continuing.
Round 14: 12 dec (12)
Head
Change to flesh coloured yarn:
Round 1: 12 sl
Round 2: 12 sc blo
Round 3: 12 inc (24)
Round 4: 24 inc (48)
Round 5-12: 48 sc (8 rounds)
Place safety eyes between rounds 10 and 11, making sure they are centre on face and 8 stitches apart.
Round 13: (6 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (42)
Round 14: (5 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (36)
Round 15: (4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)
Round 16: (3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)
Round 17: (2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)
Make sure head is stuffed before continuing.
Round 18: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)
Round 19: dec x 6 (6)
Fasten off, gather around fasten off stitches and pull tight to close hole at top of head.
Hair
Using brown coloured yarn:
Round 1: 6 sc into magic ring
Round 2: 6 inc (12)
Round 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)
Round 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)
Round 6: (4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)
Round 7: (5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)
Round 8: (6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (48)
Rounds 9-14: 48 sc (6 rounds)
Round 14: (1 sl into next stitch on base of hair, 10 ch, 9 sc starting in second chain from hook, 1 sl into next stitch on base of hair) x 13 – this makes 13 curls – then 7 sc, 20 ch, 19 sc, 1 sl into next stitch of hair base, 1 sl into next stitch of hair base, 25 ch, 24 sc, 1 sl into next stitch of hair base. Fasten off.
You will have two long curls which form the parting of Sirius’ hair. Place hair on head and adjust until you are happy with where it sits (refer to pictures). Sew base of hair to head. Sew each of the long curls partly to head to hold parting in place.
Beard
Using brown coloured yarn:
Row 1: 26 ch
Row 2: 25 sc
Row 3: 1 ch, 5 dec, 5 sc, 5 dec (15)
Row 4: 1 ch, 15 sc Fasten off.
Pin beard in place and then sew to attach. Embroider mustache using brown yarn. If you wish, embroider mouth with black yarn/embroidery thread.
Using dark grey coloured yarn and starting at bottom of waistcoat:
Row 1: ch 20
Row 2: starting in second chain from hook 19 sc
Row 3: 1 ch, 1 inc, 17 sc, 1 inc
Row 4: 1 ch, 1 inc, 19 sc, 1 inc (23)
Row 5-9: 1 ch, 23 sc (5 rows)
Row 10: 1 ch, 1 dec, 19 sc, 1 dec (21)
Row 11: 21 sc
Row 12: 1 ch, 1 dec, 17 sc, 1 dec (19)
Dividing for arms:
Row 13: 1 ch, 3 sc, turn
Row 14: 1 ch, 1 sc, 1 dec, turn
Row 15: 1 ch, 2 sc, fasten off.
Fasten yarn back onto main piece of waistcoat, skipping two stitches from the piece just worked.
Rows 16-18: 1 ch, 9 sc, turn (3 rows)
Fasten off.
Fasten yarn back onto main piece of waistcoat, skipping two stitches from the piece just worked (this means you should be working in the last three stitches)
Row 19: 1 ch, 3 sc, turn
Row 20: 1 ch, 1 dec, 1 sc, turn
Row 21: 1 ch, 2sc, turn
This row you stitch across all stitches again to join the waistcoat back together.
Row 22: 1 ch, 2 sc, 2 ch, 9 sc, 2 ch, 2 sc (17)
Row 23: 1 ch 8 dec, 1 sc
To neaten the waistcoat, you can sc around the outside edge. Fasten off. Place waistcoat on doll then use light grey yarn to embroider buttons (or use tiny buttons)
Sleeves (make two):
Using green coloured yarn
Round 1: 12 ch and join in a loop
Rounds 2-11: 12 sc (10 rounds)
Fasten off
Main body of coat:
Using green coloured yarn and starting at bottom of coat
Row 1: ch 23
Row 2: starting in second chain from hook 22 sc
Row 3-14: 1 ch, starting in second chain from hook 22 sc (12 rows)
Row 15: 1 ch, 6 sc, 12 sc around arm, 10 sc, 12 sc around other arm, 6 sc (46)
Rows 16-17: 46 sc (2 rows)
Row 18: 1 ch, 23 dec (23)
Row 19: 1 ch, 23 sc (2 rounds)
Row 20: 1 ch, 11 dec, 1 sc (12)
To neaten the coat, you can sc around the entire outside edge. Fasten off.
Weave in yarn ends.
Row 1: ch 11
Fasten off. Spray chain with hairspray and leave to dry until stiff. Trim off extra yarn.
This page contains some affiliate links – if you purchase a product using these links I may receive a small payment at no extra cost to you.
These booties are great for using up left over yarn (and, I don’t know about you, but I have far too much yarn lying around at the moment!). The booties are also pretty easy to make. They are knitted flat on two needles and then seamed along the sole and up the back of the bootie. The pattern uses short rows which means no picking up stitches across the top of the foot (I always find picking up stitches frustrating so I’m very pleased about this!).
Feel free to use this pattern to make booties for whatever you like – friends, grandchildren, or to sell. I am on a mission to make and donate as much as possible to charity this year, so it would be awesome if you felt like making a pair or two for charity too! Also you could take a look at my other knitting patterns for more stash busting ideas!
There are a few stitches you need to know how to do:
K – Knit
P – Purl
P2tog – purl two stitches together
K1, sl1, psso – knit one stitch, slip the next stitch onto the needle, pass the knitted stitch over the slipped stitch
M1 – make one stitch by picking up the loop between the stitch just worked and the next stitch
Yo – yarn over – wrap the yarn around the needle to create another stitch
Sl – slip stitch (slide stitch onto needle without working it)
Using different sized yarn and/or needles will make different sized booties – larger needles and/or thicker yarn will make larger booties and smaller needles and/or thinner yarn will make smaller booties – not a bad thing if you’re using up your stash by donating to charity as most charities prefer a range of sizes.
3.25 mm needles and light worsted weight/DK wool gives 8 cm booties (newborn to 3 months)
2.5 mm needles and 4 ply (close to sport or fingering) wool gives 7 cm booties (premmie to newborn)
Happy knitting!
Note: If you wish to work stripes like those shown with the pink and silver booties above, start with the secondary colour (e.g. grey) and change colour after every two rows for rows 1-18. Change colour for row 19 and work rows 19-34 in the same colour. Change colour for row 35 and every two rows until the end of the pattern)
Cast on 31 sts
Row 1: knit row
Row 2: k1, m1, k14, m1, k1, m1, k14, m1, k1 (35)
Row 3: knit row
Row 4: k2, m1, k14, m1, k3, m1, k14, m1, k2 (39)
Row 5: knit row
Row 6: k3, m1, k14, m1, k5, m1, k14, m1, k3 (43)
Row 7: knit row
Row 8: k4, m1, k14, m1, k7, m1, k14, m1, k4 (47)
Rows 9-18: knit rows (10 rows)
Row 19: k27, s1, k1, psso, turn (46)
Row 20: sl1, p7, p2tog, turn (45)
Row 21: sl1, k7, sl1, k1, psso, turn (44)
Rows 22-31: Repeat rows 20 & 21 five more times (34)
Row 32: sl1, p7, p2 tog, turn
Row 33: sl1, k20, (33 on right needle, none on left needle)
Row 34: knit row
Row 35: (k2tog, yo) x 16, k1
Rows 36-47: knit 12 rows
Cast off knit wise.
Seam along sole and up back of foot. Thread length of ribbon through eyelets starting from the front of the bootie and ending back at the front of the bootie.
We have a new addition to our already full house – little Deet! Although he’s tiny, he’s holding his own, even with our two dogs, Daisy and Storm. Storm is pretty keen on the new comer, happily playing with him and following him around the house. Daisy, however, is less than impressed. In fact, she refused to even make eye contact with him for the first week! Which is exactly what Storm did when we brought Daisy home. Daisy does seem to be coming around to the idea now though, so I hope soon they’ll be just as good friends as Daisy and Storm are.
Deet is a rescue kitten (just like all our animals) and something I thought was very sweet is he came with his own knitted toy mouse. And he loves it! However, it quickly started looking worn out, so I thought I’d have a go at making him another (and drop a few extras off to the cat rescue centre).
The pattern for the mouse is great for using up little oddments of yarn – it only takes 18 m/20 yards of DK/light worsted weight yarn and you can always make them with stripes to use up even smaller amounts of left overs. Also, the body and tail are all one piece, just the ears are made separately, so very little sewing is needed (I really don’t like sewing things together!).
Feel free to use this pattern as you wish – maybe its for making toys for your own pets, maybe for friends, maybe for your local animal shelter, or maybe to sell – entirely up to you!
Approximately 7 cm long (not including tail) using DK/Light Worsted Weight yarn and 2.75 mm crochet hook. Using light worsted weight/DK yarn and a 2.75 mm hook you will need approximately only 18 m (20 yards) of yarn – a great way to use up little leftovers!
You can use any yarn and hook combination that gives you good tension. Normally this would be a hook at least two sizes smaller than that recommended on the yarn label.
US Teminology
sc – single crochet
dec – decrease
inc – increase
ch – chain
The numbers in brackets at the end of each round indicate either:
Round 1: 6 sc into magic ring (6)
Round 2: (2 sc, 1 inc) x 2 (8)
Round 3: (3 sc, 1 inc) x 2 (10)
Round 4: (4 sc, 1 inc) x 2 (12)
Round 5: (5 sc, 1 inc) x 2 (14)
Round 6: (6 sc, 1 inc) x 2 (16)
Round 7: (7 sc, 1 inc) x 2 (18)
Round 8: (8 sc, 1 inc) x 2 (20)
Round 9: (9 sc, 1 inc) x 2 (22)
Round 10: (10 sc, 1 inc) x 2 (24)
Rounds 11-15: 24 sc (5 rounds)
Round 16: (2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)
Round 17: (1sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)
Stuff mouse.
Round 18: 6 dec (6)
ch 30 for tail
Fasten off.
Round 1: 6 sc into magic ring (6)
Rounds 2-3: 6 sc (2 rounds)
Fasten off.
Flatten ears. Attach ears to head between rounds 7 and 8 with 3 stitches in between the ears.
Embroider eyes.
Done!
He’s finally here! A free Harry Potter toy knitting pattern! (Just in case you are looking for a crochet version, you can find that here) And he’s just in time for some crafting fun in the holiday break! ‘(I almost said summer holidays, but I suspect most of you are not baking in the sunny weather – however, I am very jealous that there is never a chance of a white Christmas here!)
Harry is knitted flat on two needles and seamed up the inside of his legs and down his back – I have never got the hang of knitting in the round, especially little pieces!
If you would like to be updated every time I post a new pattern, please fill in the form ‘Subscribe to blog via email’ (on the right hand side on desktop view, or scroll down on mobile).
Please also take a look at my other free knitting patterns.
Approximately 21 cm (8.5 inches) tall using DK/Light Worsted Weight yarn and 3 mm needles.
You can use any yarn and needle combination that gives you good tension. Normally this would be needles at least two sizes smaller than that recommended on the yarn label.
k – knit
p – purl
st – stitch
k2tog – decrease by knitting two stitches together
p2tog – decrease by purling two stitches together
inc k wise – increase by knitting into the front and back loops of the stitch
inc p wise – increase by purling into front and back loops of the stitch
B&T – Cut yarn leaving a tail, thread tail on to a tapestry needle, thread tapestry needle through the remaining stitches on knitting needle. Pull tail through, pull tight and tie off
Using black coloured yarn and stuffing as you go, cast on 8 stitches.
Row 1: inc in every stitch (you should then have 16 stitches)
Rows 2-6: stocking stitch starting with a purl row (5 rows total).
Row 7: k 1 st, (k2tog, k 2 sts) x 3, k2tog, k 1 st. (you should then have 12 sts)
Row 8: p row
Change to dark grey coloured yarn
Row 9: k row
Row 10: k row (this form the trouser cuff)
Rows 11-22: stocking stitch starting with a knit row (12 rows total)
Place these stitches on a spare needle and repeat for second leg.
Continuing with dark grey yarn
Row 1: knit across stitches on the second leg you made, then continue knitting across the first leg so they are now joined together (you should have 24 stitches)
Rows 2-4: stocking stitch starting with a p row (3 rows total)
Change to light grey yarn
Row 5-7: knit rows (3 rows) (this forms a ridge at the bottom of the jersey)
Change to red coloured yarn
Row 8: p row
Change to yellow coloured yarn
Row 9: k row
Change to red coloured yarn
Row 10: p row
Change to light grey yarn
Rows 11-16: stocking stitch starting with k row (6 rows total)
Row 17: k 5 sts, k2tog, k 10 sts, k2togh, k 5 sts (22 stitches at the end of this row)
Row 18: p row
Row 19: k 5 sts, k2tog, k 8 sts, k2togh, k 5 sts (20 stitches at the end of this row)
Row 20: p row
Row 21: p2tog x 10 (10 stitches at the end of this row) Do not fasten off.
Change to flesh coloured yarn
Row 1: p 10
Row 2: inc k wise in all sts (20 stitches at the end of this row)
Row 3: inc p wise in all sts (40 stitches at the end of this row)
Rows 4-23: stocking stitch 20 rows starting with a k row.
Row 24: (k 2 sts, k2tog) x 10 (30 sts at end of this row)
Row 25: p row
Row 26: (k 1 st, k2tog) x 10 (20 sts at end of this row)
Row 27: p row
Row 28: k2tog x 10 (10 sts at end of this row)
B & T
Place safety eyes between rows 15 and 16 of head, approximately 14 sts apart, making sure they are centred.
Gather along the cast on black sts on each leg and pull tight. Join the row ends of each leg (if you use mattress stitch, there is no need to sew him inside out and it gives a great finish). These leg seams will sit on the inside of Harry’s legs. Stuff legs. Join row ends on torso, keeping coloured changes aligned and stuffing as you go (this seam will run up Harry’s back). Join row ends on head, stuffing as you go. Sew in any lose yarn ends.
Using black coloured yarn cast on 15 sts:
Row 1: cast off 2 sts, k to last 3 sts, turn
Row 2: k row to end
Row 3: inc k wise in first 2 sts, k to last 6 sts, turn
Row 4: k row to end
Rows 5-6: k rows
Repeat these 6 rows 13 more times (14 times in total)
Cast off.
Sew together cast on and cast off edges. Gather around the short row ends and pull tightly together to form top of hair. Pin hair to Harry’s head and sew in place.
Using light grey coloured yarn cast on 9 stitches.
Rows 1-13: stocking stitch starting with a knit row. You should also end with a knit row (13 rows total)
Row 14: k row (this is on the wrong side, but forms the cuff of Harry’s sleeves)
Change to flesh coloured yarn:
Row 15: k row
Row 16: p row
Row 17: k row
Row 18: (p2tog) x 4, p 1
B&T
Sew row ends together. Stuff lightly. Pin arms to side of body, approximately one row below the neck, and sew in place.
Use embroidery thread or yarn to embroider lightning bolt scar on Harry’s head and any other facial features you wish.
Using red coloured yarn cast on 9 sts
Rows 1-4: stocking stitch starting with a k row (4 rows total)
Change to yellow coloured yarn
Rows 5-8: stocking stitch starting with a p row (4 rows total)
Continue working in stripes of four rows red, four rows yellow until you have 21 stripes in total.
Cast off.
Sew together row ends, being careful to line up colour changes.
Cut 10 pieces of red yarn approximately 10 cm (4 inches) long, and 10 pieces of yellow yarn the same length. To form the tassels of the scarf, use one piece of yellow and one piece of red together, draw the lengths through the end of the scarf and tie with a knot. Make five of these on each end of the scarf. Trim ends of tassels to make even.
The robes are knitted in one piece (arms included).
Using black coloured yarn cast on 22 sts
Row 1: k row
Row 2: k 3 sts, (inc k wise) x 2, k 2 sts, (inc k wise) x 2, k 4 sts, (inc k wise) x 2, k 2 sts, (inc k wise) x 2, k 3 sts (you should now have 30 sts)
Row 3: k 2 sts, p 26 sts, k 2 sts
Row 4: k 4 sts, (inc k wise) x 2, k 4 sts, (inc k wise) x 2, k 6 sts, (inc k wise) x 2, k 4 sts, (inc k wise) x 2, k 4 sts (you should now have 38 sts)
Row 5: k 2 sts, p 34 sts, k 2 sts
Row 6: k 5 sts, (inc k wise) x 2, k 6 sts, (inc k wise) x 2, k 8 sts, (inc k wise) x 2, k 6 sts, (inc k wise) x 2, k 5 sts (you should now have 46 sts)
Row 7: k 2 sts, p 42 sts, k 2 sts
Row 8: k 6 sts, (inc k wise) x 2, k 8 sts, (inc k wise) x 2, k 10 sts, (inc k wise) x 2, k 8 sts, (inc k wise) x 2, k 6 sts (you should now have 54 sts)
Row 9: k 2 sts, p 50 sts, k 2 sts
Row 10: k 7 sts, (inc k wise) x 2, k 10 sts, (inc k wise) x 2, k 12 sts, (inc k wise) x 2, k 10 sts, (inc k wise) x 2, k 7 sts (you should now have 62 sts)
Row 11: k 2 sts, p 58 sts, k 2 sts
This form the very top of the robes. Now you divide for the arms.
Row 1: k 23 sts, turn
Row 2: p 14 sts, turn
Rows 3-7: Working on these 14 sts, stocking stitch 5 rows starting with a k row.
Rows 8-9: k rows (this forms the cuff of the sleeve)
Cast off.
Join yarn back to the main part of the robes under the arm.
Row 1: k 30 sts, turn
Row 2: k 14 sts, turn
Rows 3-7: Working on these 14 sts, stocking stitch 5 rows starting with a k row.
Rows 8-9: k rows (this forms the cuff of the sleeve)
Cast off.
Rejoin yarn to main part of cloak and k the last 9 sts of the row.
Row 1: k 2 sts, p 30 sts, k 2 sts
Row 2: k row
Rows 3-28: Repeat rows 1 & 2 12 times (13 times in total)
Rows 29-30: k rows
Cast off.
Sew together row ends of each sleeve. Weave in any yarn ends.
Using brown coloured yarn cast on 15 sts
Row 1: k row
Row 2 P row
Cast off. Sew together cast on and cast of stitches. If the wand needs stiffening, either insert a toothpick inside the wand or use a liberal amount of hairspray to stiffen.
Our latest pattern is a free bedtime dolls Amigurumi pattern! A while ago I made a bedtime knitted doll pattern and I loved her so I thought I would make a crochet version. She has three hair options included here, but these dolls are the same size as all my other Amigurumi dolls (except the mini Harry Potters and mini Dr Who) so you can use any of their hair as well and it will fit.
I am planning on making a series of these Amigurumi dolls, so if you would like to request a pattern for a certain character (I’ll do my best!) please let me know by commenting below.
If you would like to be updated every time I post a new pattern, please fill in the form ‘Subscribe to blog via email’ (on the right hand side on desktop view, or scroll down on mobile).
Please also take a look at our other Amigurumi patterns…
Approximately 28 cm (11 inches) tall using DK/Light Worsted Weight yarn and 3 mm crochet hook.
Approximately 30 cm (12 inches) tall using worsted weight yarn and 3 mm crochet hook.
Approximately 20 cm (8 inches) tall using DK/Light Worsted Weight yarn and 2.75 mm crochet hook.
You can use any yarn and crochet hook combination that gives you good tension. Normally this would be a hook at least two sizes smaller than that recommended on the yarn label.
You can use any yarn and crochet hook combination that gives you good tension. Normally this would be a hook around two sizes smaller than that recommended on the yarn label. For the dolls I used a 2.75 mm hook with 8ply/DK/Light Worsted Weight acrylic yarn.
sc – single crochet
dec – decrease
inc – increase
blo – crochet through back loops only
sl – slip stitch
dc – double crochet
tr – treble crochet
ch – chain
The numbers in brackets at the end of each round indicate how many stitches you should have at the end of the round
This pattern contains interchangeable options for hair. You only need to follow the instructions for one of the hair options.
Arms (make 2)
Using flesh coloured yarn:
Round 1: 4 sc into magic ring (4)
Round 2: 4 inc (8)
Rounds 3-4: 8 sc (2 rounds)
Change to top coloured yarn
Round 5: 8 sl
Round 6: 8 sc blo
Rounds 7-14: 8 sc (8 rounds)
Fasten off. Repeat for second arm. Lightly stuff both arms.
Legs
Using slipper coloured yarn and stuffing as you go:
Round 1: 6 sc into magic ring (6)
Round 2: 6 inc (12)
Round 3: (3 sc, 3 inc) 2 times (18)
Round 4: 18 sc blo (18)
Round 5: 18 sc
Round 6: 2 sc, 7 dec, 2 sc (11)
Change to darker coloured pyjama pants yarn:
Round 7: 11 sl
Round 8: 11 sc blo
Round 9-18: working one round light pyjama pants coloured yarn and one round of darker coloured pyjama pants yarn, 11 sc for 10 rounds (you will end with a darker coloured round).
Sc until at right side of leg when foot is facing forward.
Fasten off.
Make second leg same as first, but do not fasten off.
sc to side of leg if not already there. Chain 1 stitch.
Change to lighter coloured pants coloured yarn
Round 1: 11 sc around leg that you fastened off (legs are then attached to each other), 1 sc in ch, 11 sc around second leg, 1 sc in ch (24)
Change to darker coloured pyjama pants coloured yarn
Round 2: 10 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec (22)
Change to lighter coloured pyjama pants coloured yarn
Round 3: 22 sc
sc until at centre of back
Change to top coloured yarn:
Round 4: 22 sl
Round 5: 22 sc blo
Do not fasten off.
Torso
Rounds 1-4: 22 sc (3 rounds)
Round 5: 5 sc, 1 dec, 9 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc (20)
Round 6-7: 20 sc (2 rounds)
Sc to side of body if not already there
Round 8: 8 sc around arm, 10 sc blo on body, 8 sc around other arm, 10 sc blo on body (36)
Round 9: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 12 (24)
Make sure body is stuffed before continuing.
Round 10: 12 dec (12)
Change to flesh coloured yarn
Round 11: 12 sl
Do not fasten off.
Head
Round 1: 12 sc (12)
Round 2: 12 inc (24)
Round 3: 24 inc (48)
Round 4-11: 48 sc (8 rounds)
If you wish to use safety eyes place them now between rounds 9 and 10, making sure they are centre on face and 8 stitches apart.
Round 12: (6 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (42)
Round 13: (5 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (36)
Round 14: (4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)
Round 15: (3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)
Round 16: (2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)
Make sure head is stuffed before continuing.
Round 17: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)
Round 18: dec x 6 (6)
Fasten off, gather around fasten off stitches and pull tight to close hole at top of head.
Embroider any facial features you wish to.
Using hair coloured yarn:
Round 1: 6 sc into magic ring
Round 2: 6 inc (12)
Round 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) (18)
Round 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) (24)
Round 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) (30)
Round 6: (4 sc, 1 inc) (36)
Round 7: (5 sc, 1 inc) (42)
Round 8: (6 sc, 1 inc) (48)
Round 9-14: 48 sc (6 rounds)
Round 14: (1 sc, 2 dc, 1 tr, 2 dc, 1 sl) x 3, 3 sc, 3 hdc, 3 dc, 3 tr, 1 dc, 1 sc, (1 sc, 2 dc, 1 tr, 2 dc, 1 sl) x 2
Fasten off. Pin hair to head and then sew into place.
Using light yellow coloured yarn:
Hair base:
Round 1: 6 sc into magic ring
Round 2: 6 inc (12)
Round 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)
Round 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)
Round 6: (4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)
Round 7: (5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)
Round 8: (6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (48)
Rounds 9-14: 48 sc (6 rounds)
Curls:
Round 15: (1 sl, 25 ch, starting in 2nd ch from hook 24 sc, sl in next stich on hair base) x 17, (1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc) x 2, sl to join.
Fasten off. Pin hair to head and then sew into place. Gather hair to side of head and tie in place with a length of yarn.
Using hair coloured yarn:
Round 1: 6 sc into magic ring
Round 2: 6 inc (12)
Round 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)
Round 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)
Round 6: (4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)
Round 7: (5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)
Round 8: (6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (48)
Rounds 8-13: 48 sc (6 rounds)
Round 14: 9 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc, 1 sl, 1 sc, 1 hdc, 34 dc sl to join.
Rounds 15-18: turn, 3 ch, 30 dc (4 rounds)
Fasten off. Pin hair to head and then sew into place.
Legs (make two)
Using bear coloured yarn:
Round 1: 6 sc in magic ring
Rounds 2-4: 6 sc (3 rounds)
Fasten off. Repeat for second leg, but do not fasten off.
Torso & Head
Round 1: 6 sc around first leg (leg you fastened off), then 6 sc around leg you were working on. Legs should now be joined together. (12)
Round 2-4: 12 sc (3 rounds)
Stuff body.
Round 5: 6 dec (6)
Round 6: 6 inc (12)
Round 7: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)
Rounds 8-9: 18 sc (2 rounds)
Round 10: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)
Stuff head.
Round 11: 6 dec (6)
Fasten off.
Arms (make two)
Round 1: 6 sc in magic ring
Rounds 2-3: 6 sc (2 rounds)
Round 4: 3 dec (3)
Fasten off. Pin arms to sides of body and sew to attach at neck.
Ears (make two)
Round 1: 6 sc in magic ring
Round 2: 6 sc
Fasten off.
Pin ears to head and sew in place.
Embroider face on bear and tie a short length of yarn around bears neck for bow.
Our latest creation is a free knitting pattern for a Christmas tree square (or is it a pine tree? A fir tree? You decide!). This square would work great as a washcloth or dishcloth, or you could pair it with other squares to make an afghan or blanket.
This post contains affiliate links, which are links to products I personally use and recommend. By using these links, and at no extra cost to you, I may earn a small commission which helps to support the production of more free patterns and the purchase of yarn for several charity knitting groups I belong to.
For this square, I used Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash Yarn in Christmas Green– I absolutely love this yarn, it’s 100% wool, machine washable AND can be tumble dried (so great for baby blankets)! The wool is also very soft, and knits up with wonderful stitch definition, which is fantastic for these squares. If green isn’t your choice of colour, no worries, as 220 Superwash comes in an amazing 135 different shades! One ball makes 3-4 squares using 3.5-4.0 mm needles.
If you would like to be updated every time I post a new pattern , please fill in the form ‘Subscribe to blog via email’ (on the right hand side on desktop view, or scroll down on mobile).
Size depends on yarn and needle size used:
With DK/Light Worsted Weight yarn and 4 mm (US 6, UK 8) knitting needles, finished squares are approximately 22 cm x 22 cm (8.5 inches x 8.5 inches). I highly recommend Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash Yarn in Christmas Green.
With Worsted Weight yarn and and 4.5 mm knitting needles (US size 7, UK size 7) finished square is approximately 26 cm x 26 cm (10 inches x 10 inches). I highly recommend Cascade 220 Yarn (Aran) in Palm
Any sized needle and yarn can be used (please refer to yarn label for recommended needle size), however different needle and yarn sizes will produce different sized squares, so if you plan to make an afghan or a set of these it is best to use the same needle size and yarn for each square.
On Right Side: Knit white squares and purl black dots
On Wrong Side: Purl white squares and knit black dots
Cast on 45 stitches and start at bottom left hand corner of chart with a wrong side row.
Cast on 45
Work 7 rows of (K1,P1) to last stitch, K1
Row 8: K1, P1, K1, P1, K37, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 9 and All Odd Numbered Rows: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P35, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 10: K1, P1, K1, P1, K15, P7, K15, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 12: K1, P1, K1, P1, K15, P7, K15, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 14: K1, P1, K1, P1, K15, P7, K15, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 16: K1, P1, K1, P1, K5, P27, K5, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 18: K1, P1, K1, P1, K6, P25, K6, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 20: K1, P1, K1, P1, K7, P23, K7, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 22: K1, P1, K1, P1, K8, P21, K8, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 24: K1, P1, K1, P1, K7, P23, K7, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 26: K1, P1, K1, P1, K8, P21, K8, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 28: K1, P1, K1, P1, K9, P19, K9, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 30: K1, P1, K1, P1, K10, P17, K10, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 32: K1, P1, K1, P1, K11, P15, K11, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 34: K1, P1, K1, P1, K10, P17, K10, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 36: K1, P1, K1, P1, K11, P15, K11, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 38: K1, P1, K1, P1, K12, P13, K12, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 40: K1, P1, K1, P1, K13, P11, K13, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 42: K1, P1, K1, P1, K14, P9, K14, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 44: K1, P1, K1, P1, K13, P11, K13, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 46: K1, P1, K1, P1, K14, P9, K14, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 48: K1, P1, K1, P1, K15, P7, K15, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 50: K1, P1, K1, P1, K16, P5, K16, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 52: K1, P1, K1, P1, K17, P3, K17, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 54: K1, P1, K1, P1, K18, P1, K18, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 56: K1, P1, K1, P1, K37, P1, K1, P1, K1
Rows 57-63: Work 7 rows of (K1, P1) to last stitch, K1
Cast off, weave in ends and block.
