This newborn baby hat is super cute. This free pattern is knitted in the round which means there are no seams to sew (yay!) and the diamond pattern is pretty while being suitable for both a baby girl or boy. The top of the hat also looks awesome:

The hat I made is off to charity (since my goal this year is to make as many items as possible for good causes!), but you’re welcome to use the pattern as you wish – for yourself, for charity or to make items to sell. However, please don’t post this pattern elsewhere, rather link back to my site.

I have lots of other free knitting pattern too – check them out here.

If you would like to be updated every time I post a new pattern, please fill in the form ‘Subscribe to blog via email’ (on the right hand side on desktop view or scroll down on mobile)

Size & Materials

I knitted this hat with 3 mm double pointed needles and 4 ply (sport weight) yarn (I used an Alpaca blend which turn out super soft, but of course you can use any type of yarn you wish). You could knit this with thicker yarn, but of course it would change the size.

The finished hat is approximately 32 cm (12.5″) unstretched, and 40 cm stretched (15.75″), so perfect for a newborn. You’ll need approximately 60 m (66 yards) of yarn and 3 mm double pointed needles.

Abbreviations

k – knit

p – purl

sl k wise – insert needle as if to knit the stitch, but instead of knitting the stitch just slide it onto the right hand needle

sl p wise – insert needles as if to purl the stitch, but instead of purling the stitch just slide it onto the right hand needle

k2tog – knit two stitches together

psso – pass slipped stitch over the stitch just worked

yo – yarn over

Pattern

Cast on 80 stitches.

Working in the round:

Rounds 1-14: (K2, P2) around

Round 15: (yo, sl 2 stitches k wise then k these two stitches together, p5, k2tog, yo, k1) repeat around

Round 16: k

Round 17: (k1, yo, sl 2 stitches k wise then k these two stitches together, p3, k2tog, yo, k2) repeat around

Round 18: k

Round 19: (k2, yo, sl 2 stitches k wise then k these two stitches together, p1, k2 tog, yo, k3) repeat around

Round 20: k

Round 21: (k3, yo, sl 1 p wise, k2tog, psso, yo k4) repeat around

Round 22: k

Round 23: (p2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl 2 stitches k wise then k these two stitches together, p3) repeat around

Round 24: k

Round 25: (p1, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, sl 2 stitches k wise then k these two stitches together, p2

Round 26: k

Round 27: (k2tog, yo, k5, yo, sl 2 stitches k wise then k these two stitches together, p1)

Round 28: k

Round 29: k first stitch and slide into previous round (i.e. move back onto previous needle), (yo, k7, yo, sl 1 p wise, k2tog, psso) repeat around

Round 30: k

Rounds 31-46: repeat rounds 15-30

Round 47: (k8, k2tog) repeat around

Round 48: (k7, k2tog) repeat around

Round 49: (k6, k2tog) repeat around

Round 50: (k5, k2tog) repeat around

Round 51: (k4, k2tog) repeat around

Round 52: (k3, k2tog) repeat around

Round 53: (k2, k2tog) repeat around

Round 54: (k1, k2tog) repeat around

Round 55: (k2tog) repeat around

Break yarn and thread through remaining 8 stitches. Pull tightly and fasten off. Weave in ends.

Due to popular request, I’ve adjusted the sizing for my newborn baby booties and hat set for premmie size. This set is knitted flat and seamed, and the booties have ribbons to keep them on squirmy little feet.

The baby booties were inspired by a pair my great-grandmother’s friend made for my first son many years ago. I was just learning to knit at the time and was totally intrigued with how they were put together. I’ve never found the exact pattern so I decided to have a go at making them myself. Then, with lots of left over wool, I thought it would be wonderful to have a matching hat. My set is off to charity, but feel free to use this pattern to make baby sets for whatever you like – friends, grandchildren, or to sell. I am on a mission to make and donate as much as possible to charity this year, so it would be awesome if you felt like making one for charity too! Also you could take a look at my other knitting patterns for more stash busting ideas!

If you would like to be updated every time we post a new pattern, please fill in the form ‘Subscribe to blog via email’ (on the right hand side on desktop view or scroll down on mobile)

Size & Materials

I knitted this set with left over DK/Light Worsted Weight yarn and 4 mm needles. Of course you could make this with different sized yarn (worsted weight would be a good option) however this will change the size. Worsted weight would make a larger hat and booties (or you could use smaller – 3.5 mm – needles).

Using DK/light worsted weight wool and 4 mm needles:

Hat: Unstretched 28 cm (11″), stretched 32 cm (12.5″) (super stretchy!), approximately 70 m (77 yards) of main colour and 20 m (22 yards) of contrast colour.

Booties: sole 6.75 cm (2.7″), approximately 50 m (55 yards) of main colour and 10 m (11 yards) of contrast colour, and approximately 60 cm (24″) of ribbon.

Abbreviations:

K – Knit

P – Purl

K2TOG – Knit two stitches together

P2TOG – Purl two stitches together

SL1, K1, PSSO – slip one stitch, knit the next stitch onto the needle, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch

YO – yarn over – wrap the yarn around the needle to create another stitch

M1- make one stitch by picking up the loop between stitches. Alternatively, you can increasing by knitting front and back.

Booties Pattern

Cast on 17

Rows 1-2: Knit

Row 3: K8, YO, K2TOG, K7

Rows 4-6: Knit (3 Rows)

Row 7: K8, YO, K2TOG, K7

Rows 8-10: Knit (3 Rows)

Row 11: K8, YO, K2TOG, K7

Row 12-13: Knit (2 rows)

Row 14: K1, SL1, K1, PSSO, K to end

Row 15: K8, YO, K2TOG, K to last 3 sts, K2TOG, K1

Row 16: K1, SL1, K1, PSSO, K to end

Row 17: K to last stitch, M1, K1

Row 18: K1, M1, K to end

Row 19: K8, YO, K2TOG, K to last stitch, M1, K1

Rows 20-22: Knit (3 Rows)

Row 23: K8, YO, K2TOG, K7

Rows 24-26: Knit (3 Rows)

Row 27: K8, YO, K2TOG, K7

Row 28-30: Knit (3 Rows)

Row 31: K8, YO, K2TOG, K7

Rows 32: Knit

Row 33: Cast off the first 8 stitches, knit the rest of the row (9)

Change to contrast colour

Row 34: Purl

Row 35: Knit

Change to Main colour

Rows 36-37: Purl (2 rows)

Rows 38-39: Knit (2 rows)

Change to contrast colour

Row 40: Purl

Row 41: Knit

Change to Main colour

Rows 42-43: Purl (2 rows)

Rows 44-45: Knit (2 rows)

Change to contrast colour

Row 46: Purl

Row 47: Knit

Change to Main colour

Rows 48-49: Purl (2 rows)

Rows 50-51: Knit (2 rows)

Change to contrast colour

Row 52: Purl

Row 53: Knit

Change to Main colour

Rows 54-55: Purl (2 rows)

Rows 56-57: Knit (2 rows)

Change to contrast colour

Row 58: Purl

Row 59: Knit

Cast off.

Fold bootie as in picture

Sew seam for sole of bootie (only on the garter stitch part) and seam between cast off contrast colour and part way up cast on of main colour.

Sew around the row ends at the top of the booties (it looks neater if you only stitch through the main colour – see picture), pull tight and fasten in place. Repeat for row ends at bottom of bootie. Weave in any ends. Thread ribbon through eyelets.

Hat Pattern

Cast on 35 stitches in Main colour

Row 1: With main colour knit row

Row 2: With main colour knit row

Row 3: With main colour, knit 16, purl 19

Row 4: With main colour, purl 19, knit 16

Row 5: With main colour, knit 16, change to contrast colour and knit 19

Row 6: With contrast colour, purl 19, change to main colour and knit 16

Repeat these six rows 15 more times (16 times in total)

Cast off. Fold in half and sew together cast on and cast off stitches. Sew around the row ends where the contrast yarn is (it looks neater if you only stitch through the main colour), pull tight and fasten in place. Weave in any ends.

This newborn baby booties and hat set is super quick to make and (as is my current theme) great for stash busting! They’re all knitted flat and then seamed. The booties also have ribbons to keep them on to squirmy little feet. This set can be made to match my free one piece newborn cardigan knitting pattern, so all together could make a great set as a gift or for charity.

The baby booties were inspired by a pair my great-grandmother’s friend made for my first son many years ago. I was just learning to knit at the time and was totally intrigued with how they were put together. I’ve never found the exact pattern so I decided to have a go at making them myself. Then, with lots of left over wool, I thought it would be wonderful to have a matching hat. My set is off to charity, but feel free to use this pattern to make baby sets for whatever you like – friends, grandchildren, or to sell. I am on a mission to make and donate as much as possible to charity this year, so it would be awesome if you felt like making one for charity too! Also you could take a look at my other knitting patterns for more stash busting ideas!

If you would like to be updated every time we post a new pattern, please fill in the form ‘Subscribe to blog via email’ (on the right hand side on desktop view or scroll down on mobile)

Size & Materials

I knitted this set with left over DK/Light Worsted Weight yarn and 4 mm needles. Of course you could make this with different sized yarn (worsted weight would be a good option) however this will change the size. Worsted weight would make a larger hat and booties (or you could use smaller – 3.5 mm – needles).

Using DK/light worsted weight wool and 4 mm needles:

Hat: Unstretched 32 cm (12.5″), stretched 40 cm (15.75″) (super stretchy!), approximately 80 m (87 yards) of main colour and 30 m (32 yards) of contrast colour.

Booties: sole 8 cm (3.15″), approximately 60 m (65 yards) of main colour and 14 m (15 yards) of contrast colour, and approximately 80 cm (32″) of ribbon.

Abbreviations:

K – Knit

P – Purl

K2TOG – Knit two stitches together

P2TOG – Purl two stitches together

SL1, K1, PSSO – slip one stitch, knit the next stitch onto the needle, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch

YO – yarn over – wrap the yarn around the needle to create another stitch

Booties Pattern

Cast on 19 in main colour

Rows 1-2: Knit

Row 3: K9, YO, K2TOG, K8

Rows 4-6: Knit (3 Rows)

Row 7: K9, YO, K2TOG, K8

Rows 8-10: Knit (3 Rows)

Row 11: K9, YO, K2TOG, K8

Rows 12-14: Knit (3 Rows)

Row 15: K9, YO, K2TOG, K8

Row 16: K1, SL1, K1, PSSO, K to end

Row 17: K to last 3 sts, K2TOG, K1

Row 18: K1, SL1, K1, PSSO, K to end

Row 19: K9, YO, K2TOG, K to last 3 sts, K2TOG, K1

Row 20: K1, SL1, K1, PSSO, K to end

Row 21: K to last stitch, M1, K1

Row 22: K1, M1, K to end

Row 23: K9, YO, K2TOG, K to last stitch, M1, K1

Row 24: K1, M1, K to end

Row 25: K to last stitch, M1, K1

Row 26: Knit

Row 27: K9, YO, K2TOG, K8

Rows 28-30: Knit (3 Rows)

Row 31: K9, YO, K2TOG, K8

Rows 32-34: Knit (3 Rows)

Row 35: K9, YO, K2TOG, K8

Rows 36-38: Knit (3 Rows)

Row 39: K9, YO, K2TOG, K8

Row 40: Knit

Row 41: Cast off the first 9 stitches, knit the rest of the row (10)

Change to contrast colour

Row 42: Purl

Row 43: Knit

Change to Main colour

Rows 44-45: Purl (2 rows)

Rows 46-47: Knit (2 rows)

Change to contrast colour

Row 48: Purl

Row 49: Knit

Change to Main colour

Rows 50-51: Purl (2 rows)

Rows 52-53: Knit (2 rows)

Change to contrast colour

Row 54: Purl

Row 55: Knit

Change to Main colour

Rows 56-57: Purl (2 rows)

Rows 58-59: Knit (2 rows)

Change to contrast colour

Row 60: Purl

Row 61: Knit

Change to Main colour

Rows 62-63: Purl (2 rows)

Rows 64-65: Knit (2 rows)

Change to contrast colour

Row 66: Purl

Row 67: Knit

Change to Main colour

Rows 68-69: Purl (2 rows)

Rows 70-71: Knit (2 rows)

Change to contrast colour

Row 72: Purl

Row 73: Knit

Cast off.

Fold bootie as in picture

Sew seam for sole of bootie (only on the garter stitch part) and seam between cast off contrast colour and part way up cast on of main colour.

Sew around the row ends at the top of the booties (it looks neater if you only stitch through the main colour – see picture), pull tight and fasten in place. Repeat for row ends at bottom of bootie. Weave in any ends. Thread ribbon through eyelets.

Hat Pattern

Cast on 44 stitches in Main colour

Row 1: With main colour knit row

Row 2: With main colour knit row

Row 3: With main colour, knit 20, purl 24

Row 4: With main colour, purl 24, knit 20

Row 5: With main colour, knit 20, change to contrast colour and knit 24

Row 6: With contrast colour, purl 24, change to main colour and knit 20

Repeat these six rows 17 more times (18 times in total).

Cast off. Fold in half and sew together cast on and cast off stitches. Sew around the row ends where the contrast yarn is (it looks neater if you only stitch through the main colour), pull tight and fasten in place. Weave in any ends.

This cardigan is knitted flat all in one piece! Sewing things together always frustrates me – I can never seem to get them to sit how I want them to. This pattern only involves sewing together the seams of the arms! This has lots of advantages (other than lack of sewing!) – it means less pieces of keep track of, no messy seams, and means for stripes there isn’t the worry about lining them up when stitching together. And stripes are, of course, great for stash busting!

The border colour is indicated by the parts of the pattern that are underlined. If you wish to use a single colour just ignore the underlining. If you plan to work different colours inside the border, then each of the stitches underlined should be worked in border colour. For the example I worked the first two rows inside the border in grey and the next two in white, repeating this pattern until the end. Of course, you can use any colour combination and stripe length that you wish 😊

Feel free to use this pattern to make baby cardigans for whatever you like – friends, grandchildren, or to sell. I am on a mission to make and donate as much as possible to charity this year, so it would be awesome if you felt like making one for charity too! Also you could take a look at my other knitting patterns for more stash busting ideas!

Size & Materials

I knitted this jersey with left over DK/Light Worsted Weight yarn and 4 mm needles. Of course you could make this with different sized yarn (worsted weight would be a good option) however this will change the size. Worsted weight would make a larger sized cardigan (or you could use smaller needles).

Using DK/light worsted weight wool and 4 mm needles the cardigan measures:

Under arm: 44 cm (17″)

Length (neck to bottom): 21 cm (8.5″)

Yarn: approximately 300 m (330 yards) in total for DK/light worsted weight wool

Abbreviations:

K – Knit

P – Purl

K2TOG – Knit two stitches together

P2TOG – Purl two stitches together

SL1, K1, PSSO – slip one stitch, knit the next stitch onto the needle, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch

YO – yarn over – wrap the yarn around the needle to create another stitch

SL – slip stitch (slide stitch onto needle without working it)

Pattern

Starting at neck (underline indicates border colour):

Cast on 45

Row 1: (K1, P1) to last stitch, K1

Rows 2-5: Repeat Row 1 four more times (5 rows in total)

Row 6: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1 (P1, inc K wise) to last 6 sts, P1, K1, P1, YO, P2TOG, K1 (the last four stitches form a button hole) (62)

Row 7: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P to last 5 sts, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1

Row 8: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, K7, YO, K1, YO, K8, YO, K1, YO, K18, YO, K1, YO, K8, YO, K1, YO, K7, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1 (70)

Note: when purling into the yo from the previous row, always purl through the back loops to avoid holes along the raglan seams.

Row 9 and all odd row up to and including Row 33: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P to last 5 sts, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1

Row 10: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, K8, YO, K1, YO, K10, YO, K1, YO, K20, YO, K1, YO, K10, YO, K1, YO, K8, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1 (78)

Row 12: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1,, K9, YO, K1, YO, K12, YO, K1, YO, K22, YO, K1, YO, K12, YO, K1, YO, K9, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1 (86)

Row 14: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, K10, YO, K1, YO, K14, YO, K1, YO, K24, YO, K1, YO, K14, YO, K1, YO, K10, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1 (94)

Row 16: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, K11, YO, K1, YO, K16, YO, K1, YO, K26, YO, K1, YO, K16, YO, K1, YO, K11, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1 (102)

Row 18: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, K12, YO, K1, YO, K18, YO, K1, YO, K28, YO, K1, YO, K18, YO, K1, YO, K12, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1 (110)

Row 20: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, K13, YO, K1, YO, K20, YO, K1, YO, K30, YO, K1, YO, K20, YO, K1, YO, K13, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1 (118)

Row 22: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, K14, YO, K1, YO, K22, YO, K1, YO, K32, YO, K1, YO, K22, YO, K1, YO, K14, K1, P1, YO, P2TOG, K1 (126)

Row 24: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, K15, YO, K1, YO, K24, YO, K1, YO, K34, YO, K1, YO, K24, YO, K1, YO, K15, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1 (134)

Row 26: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, K16, YO, K1, YO, K26, YO, K1, YO, K36, YO, K1, YO, K26, YO, K1, YO, K16, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1 (142)

Row 28: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, K17, YO, K1, YO, K28, YO, K1, YO, K38, YO, K1, YO, K28, YO, K1, YO, K17, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1 (150)

Row 30: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, K18, YO, K1, YO, K30, YO, K1, YO, K40, YO, K1, YO, K30, YO, K1, YO, K18, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1 (158)

Row 32: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, K19, YO, K1, YO, K32, YO, K1, YO, K42, YO, K1, YO, K32, YO, K1, YO, K19, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1 (166)

Row 33: as for row 7

You should now have the following:

Divide for first arm:

Row 1: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, K55 turn leaving the remaining stitches on needle

Row 2: K1, P 32, K1 turn (working on only these 34 sts from now on)

Row 3: K34

Row 4: K1, P to last stitch, K1

Row 5: K1, SL1, K1, PSSO, K to last 3 stitches, K2TOG, K1

Row 6: K1, P to last stich, K1,

Row 7: K all stitches

Row 8: K1, P to last stitch, K1

Row 9: K1, SL1, K1, PSSO, K to last 3 stitches, K2TOG, K1

Row 10: K1, P to last stich, K1,

Rows 11-22: Repeat rows 7-10 three more times (24 sts remain)

Row 23: K 24

Row 24: K1, P to last stitch, K1

Row 25: K24

Row 26: K1, P to last stitch, K1

Row 27: K24

Row 28: (K1, P1) to end

Row 29: (P1, K1) to end

Rows 30-33: repeat rows 28-29 two more times

Fasten off.

Divide for second arm:

Join yarn to main body of cardigan where you turned for the first sleeve.

Row 1: K80 turn leaving the remaining stitches on needle

Work from Row 2 as for first arm.

Main body:

Join yarn to main body of cardigan where you turned for the second sleeve.

Row 1: K21, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1

Row 2: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P88, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1 (98)

Row 3: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, K88, K1, P1, YO, P2TOG, K1

Row 4: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P88, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1

Row 5: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, K88, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1

Rows 6-17: Repeat Rows 4-5 six more times

Row 18: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P88, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1

Row 19: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, K88, K1, P1, YO, P2TOG, K1

Row 20: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P88, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1

Row 21: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, K88, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1

Row 22: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, inc, K87, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1 (99)

Row 23: (K1, P1) to end

Rows 24-28: Repeat Row 23 five more times.

Fasten off.

Sew up seam under arm, attach buttons and you’re all done!